리마강 미스터리

아르마스 광장 뒤쪽으로 좀 걸어가니 청계천 같은 곳이 나온다. 리마강이다. 사이즈는 한강에 한참 못 미치고, 청계천보다는 좀 더 넓은 것 같다. 사람들이 다리에 서서 한참씩 내려다보고 있다. (사진 자세히 보면 구경하는 사람들이 보인다.)

리마강의 다리
<리마강의 다리>

그래 나도 강 구경 좀 하자 싶어 다가가니 웬걸, 이런 광경이 나를 맞는다.


리마강 공사현장
<리마강 공사현장>

안내문을 읽을 수 없어 대충 짐작하건대, 원래는 강이었는데 지금은 뭔가 다른 것으로 변모 중인 듯하다.

리마강 개발사업 안내판
<리마강 개발사업 안내판>

그런데 왜, 더 이상 강도 아닌 공사판을 강물처럼 하염없이들 바라보는지는 모르겠다. 할 일이 없다기엔, 근처에 공원도 있고 노점도 있고. 공사 관련자들이라기엔 한마디 간섭도 없고. 독특한 정신세계를 가진 분들이라기엔 그 수가 제법 되고. 강물이 흐르던, 옛날 좋았던 시절을 회상하는 걸까? 다가올 삐까뻔쩍한 도로들을 그려보는 걸까?


경비대 교체식과 스타벅스

(옛)강변을 따라 벤치와 작은 광장, 노점들이 모여 있는 곳을 한 바퀴 돌고 대통령궁으로 돌아왔다. 열두 시가 안 됐는데 벌써 군악대 연주를 시작했다. 울타리 바깥엔 이 행사를 보기 위해 사람들이 모여 있고, 군인들은 열심히 교통정리(?) 중이다. 트럼펫 끝에 악보를 끼우고 연주하는 모습이 얼마나 웃기던지. 그래서인지 뭔가 엄숙한 분위기이긴 한데 동시에 어설프다. 울타리 앞에서 몇 곡 연주하고 물러서길래 끝인 줄 알았더니 그건 그저 호객행위(?)였을 뿐. 광장 가장자리로 가더니 새로운 곡을 연주하기 시작한다. 엘 콘도르 파사(El Condor Pasa). 메인 레퍼토리는 정해져 있는지 군악대는 더 이상 악보를 보지 않는다. 누구나 알고 있는 음악이라 악보는 필요 없는지도. 광장 양 옆으로 열 맞춰 경비대가 등장한다. 음악 때문인가, 뭔가 좀 애잔하다. 치켜드는 발 높이가 눈에 띄게 차이 나는 것도, 발 내려놓는 타이밍이 조금씩 다른 것도, 앳된 얼굴들도, 다. 포스트를 쓰다 말고 찾아보니, 스페인에 정복당한 잉카인들의 슬픔을 표현하고, 식민지시대 농민혁명가 호세 가브리엘 콘도르칸키를 기리는 곡이란다. 내친 김에 스페인어 사전을 찾아보니 pasar에는 넘다, 지나가다, 이동하다, 이런 뜻 외에도 멈추다, 사라지다, 살아가다, 지내다, 죽다, 이런 뜻도 있다. 그럼 "El condor pasa"는 콘도르가 지나가네, 가 될 수도, 콘도르칸키가 죽는구나, 가 될 수도 있겠구나. 알고 나니 더 애잔하네.

경비대 교체식
<경비대 교체식 - 군악대 연주와 구경꾼들>

그러나 교체식을 보면서 현장에서 깨달은 건 따로 있었으니, 역시 난 걷기 위한 몸을 가진 사람은 아니라는 것. 아이고 허리 발목 발바닥이야. 얼마나 걸었다고 발목이 끊어질 듯 아프다. 잠깐의 고민 끝에 이후 루트따위는 잊기로 하고, 유니온거리를 지나올 때 보아 둔 스타벅스로 향한다.

다국적기업, 특히 음식을 다루는 다국적기업의 몹쓸 좋은 점 하나는, 해외에서 만났을 때 마치 고향에 온 것 같은 기분을 느끼게 한다는 거다. 세계 어딜 가도 똑같은 간판과 인테리어, 대동소이한 메뉴, 비슷한 가격. 나 여기 어딘지 알아. 뭘 먹어야 할지도 알고 있고, 어떻게 시켜야 하는지도 알고 있어. 두려움이나 망설임 같은 건 없지. 두리번거릴 필요도 없고. 그저 일상처럼 하면 돼. 긴장이 풀린다.

아메리카노 한 잔을 마시며(참, 페루 스타벅스에는 ‘아이스’ 메뉴가 없다!) 새끼캥거루(아이패드)를 뱃속에서 꺼내 지도를 살핀다. 터미널로 돌아가기엔 시간이 너무 이르고, 더 걷기엔 체력이 달린다. 그러니 가는 길에 있는 예술박물관에 들렀다 터미널로 돌아가기로 한다.


파사, 뽀르떼의 진실

론리에는 이 즈음 페루의 평균기온이 나와 있었다. 18도였나. 그럼 봄가을 날씨쯤 되겠군, 반팔과 얇은 겉옷 몇 벌이면 되겠지 했던 게 패인이었다. ‘평균’은 최댓값과 최솟값을 반영하지 못한다. 그러니까, 평균기온만 가지고는 새벽에는 2, 3도까지 내려가고 한낮에는 20도를 훌쩍 넘는 이 동네 일교차를 짐작도 할 수 없는 것이다. 덕분에 도착 첫 날부터 벌벌 떨게 된 쥔장, 유니온거리 옷집에 들어가 스웨터 한 벌을 사기로 한다.

앞에 지퍼가 달린 아크릴 스웨터의 가격은 16,000원쯤. 계산대에서 카드를 내밀었더니 뭐라 뭐라 한다. 그 와중에 '코멘트'라는 말을 건지고 사인하라는 건가? 코멘트가 없다고? 무슨 말? 한참 궁리를 했으나 알 길이 없다. 아멕스라 안 되나(페루는 확실히 비자의 나라다) 싶어 비자카드를 내밀었는데도 고개를 젓는다. 그러면서 이 언니 또박또박 말하길, 파사, 뽀르떼. 왓 이즈 파사 뽀르떼? 파사는 무슨 전치사인가 보지? for 정도? 근데 뽀르떼는 뭐야? 둘 다 답답하긴 마찬가지. 이 상태로 몇 분이 지나고 보다 못한 옆 직원이 거든다. 저기;;; 죄송하지만 거드셔도 못 알아듣거든요;;; 그때 옆 직원이 뭔가를 꺼내 보여준다. 본인의 ID카드다. 우리 주민등록증 같은. 그제야 Oh, you need my passport! 하고 여권을 꺼내 주었다. 그러니까 처음 들었다고 생각한 '코멘트'는 '도큐멘트'였던 거고, 카드 사용자의 신분확인이 필요했던 거고, 파사 뽀르떼(pasaporte)는 패스포트(passport)였던 거지. 첫날부터 완전 식겁. 그래도 이렇게 호되게 겪은 덕에 여행 내내 이민국이나 은행에서 파사포르테 보여 달라는 요구에 넹넹! 할 수 있었다.

한 겹을 더 입었어도 여전히 춥지만 어쨌든 예술박물관으로 간다. 리마 예술박물관의 줄임말은 '말리(MALI: Museo de Arte de Lima)'다. 사방에 'MALI'가 쓰여 있어서 처음엔 무슨 화가 이름인 줄 알았다. 줄임말이라는 걸 깨닫고 또 혼자 으쓱 으쓱. 말리에는 사보갈 특별전이 한창이었는데, 굉장히 유명한 화가인가 보았다. 평소에는 입장권을 판매하는데 페루 독립(7월 28일)기념주간 행사 덕분에 무료로 들어갈 수 있었다. 죄송하지만 사보갈은 몰랐던 분인 데다 미술에는 문외한이라 특별히 여기 보탤 말은 없지만 관람객만은 인상적이었다. 딱히 잘들 차려입은 것도 아니고, 아이부터 노인까지 구성도 다양한데 모두 가이드의 말을 경청하고 있었다. 각자 개별적으로 관람하는 게 아니라 몇 명씩 모아서 설명해 주는 것과, 각 전시실에는 정해진 인원만 입장하게 하는 것도. 역시 스페인어를 공부했었어야 해. 그런데 분명 2층 건물인 것 같은데 2층에 올라가는 길을 못 찾겠다. 대충 찾아보다 결국 포기.


밤차 타고 트루히요로

터미널에 돌아오니 고작 오후 네 시다. 가는 길에 밥집이 있으면 늦은 점심을 먹을까 했는데 영 끌리는 데가 없다. 끌리는 데가 없어서가 아니라 '개시'하기 어려워서다. 나는 이상하게 낯선 곳에 가면 쉽게 먹을 걸 먹지 못한다. 입맛이 보수적이어서이기도 하고, 긴장해서이기도 하고, 낯가림이 심해서이기도 하다. 여기선 스페인어를 못 읽은 탓도 크다. 덕분에 들어가 볼까? 하는 집이 두어 군데 있었음에도 메뉴판만 몇 번 쳐다보다 발길을 돌렸다. 터미널 2층에 간단한 스낵을 파는 것 같은데 딱히 올라가 볼 마음이 들지 않았다.

배고프겠다, 춥겠다, 그 때부터 불쌍한 터미널 동양 거지 코스프레가 시작되었다. 담요 하나 뒤집어 쓰고 졸다가 오가는 사람 구경하다, 아이 추워 하다 (왜 문은 안 닫냐고!) 보니 마침내, 드디어, 버스 시간이 되었다! 그러고 보니 점심 저녁을 다 굶었네. 아침에 비행기에서 이게 오늘의 유일한 식사일지 모른다고 생각했었는데... 왜 슬픈 예감은 틀린 적이 없나.

거지놀이 하며 바라본 터미널 풍경
<거지놀이 하며 바라본 터미널 풍경>

버스는 2층 맨 앞좌석이다. 앞이 통유리고 발 뻗기도 좋아 인기 많은 좌석이다. 으, 그런데 어디선지 화장실 냄새가 난다. (알고 보니 그 언저리 1층이 화장실. 흑.) 출발한지 오래지 않아 자신을 샌드위치라고 주장하고 싶은 것으로 보이는 빵 한 조각과, 디저트로 의심되는 빵 한두 조각, 홍차가 배급되었다. (비싼 고속버스는 이렇게 ‘식사’도 준다) 빵맛이 무슨 상관. 나를 구원했다는 사실이 중요하다. 와이파이도 된다. (접속이 안 될 때도 있다. 나는 안 되는 시간이 더 길었다.) 내 시장기를 해결해 주셨는데 와이파이쯤이야.

목적지인 트루히요까지는 버스로 아홉 시간이 걸린다. 대여섯 시간 자고 일어나도 휴식 따윈 모른다는 듯 버스는 계속 달리고 있다. (이런 장거리 버스에는 기사가 두 명 탑승하고, 교대로 운전한다.) 풍광은 좋구나. 이제 해가 뜨려고 한다.
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