잉카 트레일의 포터들

저 사진의 주인공은 기찻길이 아니다. 일명 ‘도촬’로서, 이날 나는 산에서 내려와 말과 글로만 듣던 포터들을 만날 수 있었다. (마추픽추의 포터에 관해서는 이 글 참조) 저 작은 체구에, 암만 봐도 25kg은 넘어 뵈는, 키를 넘어선 짐. 저 순간엔 어떤 수사나 합리화도 도움 되지 않았다. 그저, 저들이 지고 있는 것이 내 짐이 아니어서 다행이었다.

마추픽추와는 별개로 ‘마추픽추 마을’이라는 별명을 갖고 있는 아구아스 칼리엔테스에 대한 기억은 좋지 않다. 생계를 순전히 마추픽추 관광객들에게만 기대는 작은 마을은 ‘특색’이랄 게 없는 것 같다. 모든 음식점의 메뉴가 대동소이(피자, 파스타)하고, 가격대 역시 비슷하다. 다른 데라면 어떻게든 피해 다녔을 식당/술집 삐끼들도 피할 수 없다. 아무튼, 산에서 내려와 늦은 점심을 하려고 식당에 들어갔다. 메뉴판 가격만 봤을 때는 좀 비싸지만 이 정도는 쓰지 뭐 하는 기분으로 주문했는데 결제할 때 되니까 서비스 피인지 택스인지 블라블라 하면서 7달러를 더 뜯어갔다. 손바닥만 한 생선 한 마리에 45솔(18,000원쯤)이라니. 미리 말해 줬으면 안 갔을 텐데, 왜 미리 말을 안 했는지 아니까 더 기분이 나빴다.

참고로, 아구아스 칼리엔테스에서 비교적 합리적인 가격에 식사할 수 있는 곳은 광장의 중국집이다. 이름은 잊었으나 광장에 면해 있고, 빨간 등으로 중국집임을 짐작할 수 있는, 광장이 내려다보이는 2층 가게. 해외에서 생각할 수 있는 일반적인 중국음식을 팔고, 채식주의자 메뉴도 별도로 있다. 나는 채소볶음면을 먹었는데 스파게티 면을 몇 가지 채소와 함께 볶은 간단한 음식이지만 양도 엄청 푸짐했고 탄산음료까지 해도 17솔이던가? (이날 저녁 먹은 기록이 없다. 어쩐지, 페루 나오면서 가계부 정리하는데 돈이 좀 비더라니;) 그 정도밖에 안 했다. 20솔이 안 돼서 카드결제를 거절당했다는 게 한 가지 흠(?)이었지만.

내일 아침엔 다시 쿠스코로 돌아가야 한다. 그래 일찌감치 자려고 누웠는데 8시 반쯤 호스텔 주인이 문을 두드린다. 어제 리셉션에 있던 사람이랑 다른 사람이다. 그런데 이 주인, 오늘치 방값을 달란다. 으잉? 어제 체크인 할 때 이틀치 지불했는뒈요; 이럴 때를 대비해 어제 영수증 달라고 해놓길 잘했다. 엣헴, 하고 영수증을 짠 보여주는데 헉, 왜 50솔이라고 쓰여 있음? 영수증을 달라고만 하고 금액확인을 안 한 내 불찰이다. 아 짜증. 설상가상, 이 아저씨는 영어를 못하고 나는 스페인어를 못한다. 서로 열나 자기주장을 펼치다가 다시 생각난 것이 구글번역. 겨우 어제 그 남자한테 지불했으니 찾아서 물어보라는 의사를 전달했다. 오케이, 확인 후 아홉 시에 다시 오겠노라는 아저씨. 일이 잘못 됐을 경우를 대비하여 구글번역에 돌릴 분노의 영작을 시작했다.

내가 어제 방 잡을 때 리셉션에 있던 그 남자한테 이틀 묵겠다고 했어요. 그랬더니 그 남자가 이틀치 방값을 지불하라더군요. 그래서 100솔을 줬어요. 제가 만약 하루치만 지불했다면, 제가 아침에 나갈 때 왜 제 짐을 여기다 뒀겠어요? 저는 더 싼 방을 찾을 수도 있었을 텐데요, 솔직히 전 더 싼 방으로 옮기고 싶었어요. 하지만 미리 돈을 지불해서 그럴 수가 없었죠. 사실 말이죠, 이런 상황이 있을지도 몰라서 영수증을 요청했었어요. 그런데 영수증 금액을 확인하지 않았네요. 그건 제 실수예요. 그 남자가 제 앞에서 영수증을 써 줬는데 그게 잘못됐을 거라고 생각할 수 없었죠. 좋아요, 만약 그 사람이 100솔을 안 받았다고 주장한다면, 제가 숙박비를 두 번 지불하죠. 밤도 늦었고 다른 숙소를 찾기도 어려우니까요. 하지만 분명히 말하건대 당신은 그 사람 해고해야 할 거예요, 알겠어요? 그 사람은 거짓말쟁이니까요. 틀림없이 또 다시 당신을 속일 겁니다.

그 와중에 마침 L님이 메시지를 보내 주셔서 중계 시작; 거기가 어디라고, 곧 달려올 것처럼 걱정해 주었다. 덕분에 용기백배. 에잇, 내 구글번역의 도움을 받아 이 사기꾼들을 반드시 물리치고야 말겠다!

그러나 이 황당한 사건의 결말은 참으로 싱거웠으니... 9시에 찾아온 아저씨는 대뜸 뭐라 뭐라 하며 내 뺨에 자기 뺨을 부비부비 한다. 확인했다는 뜻인 것 같으니 평소 부비부비 인사를 싫어하더라도 좀 참자. 그런데 음, 거짓말쟁이... 사기꾼... 직접 한 얘기는 아니지만 좀 미안하다. 착오의 가능성보다는 사기의 가능성이 더 높은 상황인 건 맞았지만, 그래도 너무 단정해 버린 감이 있다. 그와 별개로, L님 말씀대로 세상은 구글이 구원하나 보다. 다시 한 번 구글번역 만세 -_-;

그러나 이 일련의 사건 덕분에 아구아스 칼리엔테스에 대한 인상은 극도로 나빠졌으니... L님에게 기찻삯을 더 지불하더라도 마추픽추는 당일치기로 (당일치기가 가능한 시간대의 기차표는 더 비싸다) 다녀가라고 신신당부해 두었다. 어쩌면 추가로 기찻값을 내더라도 아구아스에서 바가지 쓰는 가격을 생각하면 오히려 싼 걸지도 모른다. 누군가 내게 일정에 대한 조언을 구해 오더라도 똑같이 얘기할 것이다. 나 역시, 아마도 그럴 일은 없을 확률이 크지만 다시 마추픽추를 가게 되더라도 아구아스 칼리엔테스에서 머물지는 않으리라. 먹을 것도 쿠스코에서 다 싸올 거다, 흥. 어쨌든 덕분에 잠 다 깨서 열한 시 넘어서야 다시 잠들었다는 얘기.

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